Machine Applique and Free Motion Embroidery Tutorial Part 2 of 2

Here's the continuation of my tutorial I previously posted.

Now we are about to peel the back of the "web"
See the slit I mentioned in the first part? This will really help you peel the back off the fabric. Otherwise, in case you forget to cut a slit you can use a sharp gadget, i.e. your best buddy "seam ripper", stilleto, or anything pointy to help you peel off the paper.

I am lifting the slit so you can see clearly.

Peel slowly.

See how the slits really help? Now the peeling is finished.

It always help me having my cheat sheet in plain view.
Arrange your cut outs.

This is what I should end up seeing -- the tea cups stacked even after I do free motion/machine applique.

Press, do not glide your iron back and forth. Note: I used steam for the very purpose of the brand of fusible web I used. Always check your manufacturer's instructions.

Neatly pressed and adhered on my background fabric.

Press...

...press to cover all areas.

Now it's time to switch to BLACK thread. For a very good reason, black thread makes the outline stand out. It's like drawing with a pencil or black ink.

It's also time to switch from regular presser foot to darning foot. My sewing machine didn't have one so I had to buy it. If you do not have a darning foot you may use your embroidery skills. And granting you have the skills, use back stitch.

Always test your stitches by checking the tension of your machine. Mine is 1.0 as I've jotted this down so I can always remember :) It always help me jotting things down so I can always refer to my notes.

I changed fabric so you can see the stitching clearly

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Let's begin with the 'book'

I worked my machine applique from the bottom. Ladies, for some reason my fusible web didn't work well this time. I might have done something wrong which I have yet to find out. It is very frustrating when the cut out fabric do not adhere to the background fabric. While I was sewing, the cut out fabric kept jumping with the stitches so there was a lot of movement. I was going to re-do everything but I have another tutorial to make and I didn't want to waste time. So I went ahead and continue....

Notice how I sew the outlines on the right so it would look like a book?

This is what the back (wrong side) looks like. Don't worry, it will not be visible on the right side.

Off to the next cut out, the 'saucer'.

Excuse my messy stitches. It could have been easier if the fabric did adhere.

Next is the first cup.

The second cup...

I had to sew this cup in place by outlining the design so it would hold it while I do the border outline.

Very top cup is done.

I went back to sew on the saucer, to make it look more like a saucer :)

Finishing off.

My finale with the darning foot: Embroider the words "Time For Tea"
I used a disappearing ink marker to write the words, then with the darning foot still on stitch the words accurately and slowly.
The beauty of using a darning foot is you need not end your stitch on the last letter. Just lift the foot and move your needle to the next letter to continue stitching. Snip the threads off in between after all the wordings are complete.

Snip frayed edges...this is normal and it does add texture to your finished work. The outline sewn will eventually stop the fraying.

True up, or square up, your background fabric.

I'm a quilter by heart, so I always end up piecing my work. I will be finishing off this "Time For Tea" pattern as a quilted wall hanging.

COMING SOON!! A Union Jack wall hanging pattern made by me ♥